# Nyrfherdr's Sculpting Tips (New 7/20- Sculpting the body)



## nyrfherdr (Jun 6, 2005)

On the prompting of a few select members, I've been convinced to put some thought into helping people who want to join the ranks of Miniature sculpting.

So here's a thread with my musings and the musings of anyone else who wishes to participate.

Enjoy!
Game ON!
Nyrfherdr


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## nyrfherdr (Jun 6, 2005)

*Part 1: Sculpting Medium*

FORWARD
Before you read this article, I need to set the stage a little.  First and foremost, sculpting miniatures is a relatively new hobby for me.  I have been sculpting for two years as a hobby.  I sculpt in between painting miniatures and playing roleplaying games.  In other words, if you are seeking the advice of a master sculptor you won’t find that here.  If that hasn’t scared you away, I have one more revelation… I probably can’t teach you to sculpt even if I was a master.  Sculpting requires a lot of practice, a lot of patience and, in my opinion, that undefinable eye towards form.  I can’t teach any of those things.

For those of you who feel you have an eye to form (whatever that is), have patience and are willing to practice, I can offer some insight and some suggestions.  I can describe things to look for and explain some of the challenges I have faced so that you can avoid some of the pitfalls I’ve encountered.

Since I’m not planning to photograph myself working, this will mostly be advice on how to approach sculpting as a hobby and how to approach some of the unique challenges of sculpting miniatures for fantasy or sci-fi gaming.  

MATERIALS
Sculpting at its most basic only requires two things; your hands and clay.  For miniatures, however, you will likely be dissatisfied with this approach.  You really need 3 things for sculpting miniatures at the scales commonly used for gaming; a medium, tools and an armature. 

1. Sculpting Medium
There are many mediums to use for sculpting.  Everyone has their favorite and they all are equally valid.  All sculptors encourage you to try different mediums to find one you like.  Some of the ones I’ve tried are Fimo, Sculpey (multiple varieties), Magic Sculp, Milliput, A+B Putty, and Kneadatite ‘green stuff’.  All of these have something in common.  You sculpt by building up a model.  What that means is that you sculpt something, let it cure (based on the medium) and then sculpt more.  The other properties are how it handles, how it adheres to itself and other materials, how long it takes to cure, and what it takes to cure.  For example, Fimo and Sculpey require an oven to cure.

The other mediums I have listed are 2 part epoxies.  They cure by a chemical reaction when you mix the two parts of the putty. These are most commonly associated with sculpting miniatures.  Some work like clay (and except for the cure time feel just like clay).  Others work differently.

I have tried all of these products and more.  I am biased toward Kneadatite™  personally.  The reason for me is that Kneadatite™  acts nothing like clay.  It also takes the most minute details, including perfect fingerprints.

‘Green Stuff’ – the choice of many mini sculptors:
• Kneadatite™ Blue/Yellow ‘green stuff’ is an industrial epoxy-putty created by Polymer Systems Inc.  Its design purpose is bulk adhesive that can handle high pressure and temperature.   It was originally used by mini sculptors because the ability to handle pressure and temperature is very useful in the mold making process. 
• Kneadatite™  is a 2 part epoxy.  There is a yellow part and a blue part.  You mix the two to make the green putty.  It can be shaped and sculpted during the early stages of the cure process. 
• The properties of Kneadatite™  have made it one of the most common sculpting media for fantasy and sci-fi miniatures. 
• It is a useful product for miniature hobbyists too.  I can be used in place of or along with glue to hold parts together.  Because it is sculptable, it can be used to fill holes and gaps and then the area can be sculpted to blend with the surrounding parts.  It is not a difficult leap to go from this kind of work to modifying or converting existing miniatures.  The leap from conversions to sculpting, however, is a bit bigger. 
• Greenstuff cures firm, not hard.  It can’t effectively be sanded or carved after it cures, so it makes a poor ‘dry sculpt’ medium.  You need to sculpt it during the first 30-60 minutes, and then let the cure complete.   These 30-60 minutes are the effective workable time for that batch of Kneadatite™.  Make sure not to mix too much at once, or it will go to waste. 
• It is ‘stickiest’ early in the cure process, which is important as you build up a model.  Use the adhesive properties to stick more green stuff onto an armature or an existing sculpt project.  You can use the adhesive properties for some effects too.  If the Kneadatite™  is sticking to your tool, you can pull it into shapes.  This can also be frustrating if you don’t want to ‘pull’ right then.  Practice and patience are needed here. 
• To keep from sticking to tools and fingers you can use a little oil.  I use Vaseline, but others find it too thick and don’t like to use it. Some sculptors get by with a little water, although that doesn’t really change the adhesive quality in any way.  (In fact, Kneadatite™  doesn’t really react to water at all. This is one of the reasons it is my favorite medium.  For the main reason see below…) 
• If you use Vaseline or oil on your tools it will get on the Kneadatite™  and thus impact the adhesion to your project.  If you are planning to use something like that on your tools, it is best to stick the Kneadatite™  to your project and then start working it with your tool. 
• To get the green stuff smooth like the professionals, you have to burnish it.  Late in the cure, just before it is completely set, you can use a burnish tool and rub the model.  This will smooth out bumps, finger prints, sculpt marks and if you aren’t careful… Detail.  Practice and patience are needed here. 
• Kneadatite™  Blue/Yellow is perfect for organic structures:  muscles, flesh, faces, skin, fur, hair, clothing, leather, etc.   One of the reasons for this is that in the middle and end of the workable time it reacts to your sculpting much like skin/fur/clothing would.  What I mean is that if you pull on one side, it will pull on the other.  If you push in, it will stretch around that point.  This plasticity is probably the single biggest reason that the medium is my personal favorite. 
• Kneadatite™  ‘green stuff’ can be used for mechanical sculpts, but because it doesn’t cure hard it probably isn’t the best for that.  Many sculptors get fine results, others turn to different mediums. I’m becoming one to look for dry sculpt mediums (see my ‘brown stuff’ notes below). 
• Since it is a two part epoxy, you can use more or less of the two parts to create different properties.  Instead of 1 to 1 ratio of yellow to blue, you can use different ratio mixes for different effects.  Feel free to experiment.  I currently stay pretty close to 50-50. 
• Kneadatite™  is available at some game stores.  It is most often sold in a Games Workshop blister pack.  While this is fine if you just want to experiment, I wouldn’t recommend this for a long term source.    It is also available from hobby sources online.  If you decide you want to take up sculpting and Kneadatite™  becomes your medium, I’d recommend you buy it as Kneadatite™ , not as Games Workshop ‘green stuff’ or another repackaged product.  If your local game store doesn’t carry it or can’t special order it, the Internet has several vendors that carry it. 
• Kneadatite™  was originally sold in strips with the yellow/blue together in a band.  This was not optimal because where the two colors touch the chemical cure reaction can occur.  This will ruin a bit of the putty.  When you work the putty you will find clumps of partially or completely cured putty in the middle.  It is easy to just pull the cured bits out and throw them away, but it can be annoying. 
• Today Kneadatite™  Blue/Yellow comes in tubes.  If you have the Kneadatite™  as a strip, store it in the freezer or fridge to slow the cure process.  It probably isn’t necessary for the tube version. 

TIP – The Fridge:  If you get a phone call while you are sculpting, you can slow the cure process by putting the piece in the fridge or freezer.  When you get off the phone, take it out, wait for it to warm slightly and go back to work. 

‘Brown’ Stuff
• Kneadatite™  Brown/Aluminum is another epoxy I’m currently playing with. 
• It is a two part epoxy, like the Blue/Yellow but it cures hard.  
• When it is cured, it can be sanded and carved.  This allows for different sculpting techniques, often called ‘dry sculpting’. 
• This is most often used on mechanical items like weapons, armor, constructs, cyborgs, you get the idea. 
• It is a two part epoxy and the ratios can be altered for different effects, like the Blue/Yellow.  
• You can mix Brown/Aluminum with Blue/Yellow to vary hardness and other properties.  I haven’t done much experimenting with that, but understand that it can make for very good results. 
• You can get Kneadatite™  Brown/Aluminum from most of the same sources as the Blue/Yellow.  Since it is more specialized, it may require a special order, or to order from the Internet. 

TIP - 2 Part Epoxy:  With the 2 part epoxy, you have limited time after you mix the two parts together.  The key is to mix the minimum amount of material to sculpt the next part of your project.

TIP - Kneadatite™ :  Hold your project in a cork, pin vice, clamp or other device.  If you touch it, your fingerprints will show, no matter how lightly.


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## Valanthe the Sleepless (Jun 7, 2005)

*Thank You!*

Yay! Thanks for writing these, Nyrf. I am looking forward to more.


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## nyrfherdr (Jun 7, 2005)

I have some bad news.  My next set of tips require photos of my tools.  I do manage a private website where I host photos, unfortunately, my computer hard drive crashed.

I'll get the 'meatier' articles loaded once I recover.
In the meantime, I'll post something less meaty... 
Stay tuned.

Nyrf.


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## pogre (Jun 8, 2005)

nyrfherdr said:
			
		

> I have some bad news.  My next set of tips require photos of my tools.  I do manage a private website where I host photos, unfortunately, my computer hard drive crashed.
> 
> Nyrf.




Oh no!

Well, thanks for posting these tips - I am reading closely.


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## nyrfherdr (Jun 8, 2005)

*Reference Material*

Reference Material:
Every artist, no matter how casual the hobby, requires reference materials.  The reference materials provide visual instruction, techniques, inspiration and more.  Since sculpture is not a common hobby, there aren’t many books devoted to it.  What you will find, though, is that many reference materials for one art form can transfer to others.  You just need to be creative and leverage what you can find.  Also, many books work for one person and not another.  My list of reference books includes the books I find helpful.  I have many others that I’ve purchased that don’t work for me. 

Here are a few reference books I commonly use:
Dynamic Anatomy by Burne Hogarth
Dynamic Figure Drawing by Burne Hogarth
Dynamic Wrinkles and Drapery by Burne Hogarth
How to Draw the Human Head by Louise Gordon
Sculpting Miniature Military Figures by Kim Jones (Schiffer Press)
How to Draw Animals by Jack Hamm
Human Anatomy made Amazingly Easy by Christopher Hart
Anatomy: A Complete Guide for Artists by Joseph Sheppard
Cyclopedia Anatomicae by Gyorgy Feher
I also have a couple of books of animal photos

Obviously, anatomy is pretty important.

Don’t forget the inspirational side of reference material.  Real life photos of people, places, animals; Art books, movie books, game books all provide inspiration for sculpting.

I also search Yahoo Photos for pictures.


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## nyrfherdr (Jun 9, 2005)

*Armatures*

Once again, I'm still without photos.  To keep my readers from lynching me, here are some more tips that wont' require a thousand words...
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ARMATURES
You can’t sculpt a miniature without something to hold a form.  All of the mediums from clay to epoxy will not give you good results without a firm frame to help keep their shape.  This is an armature.  For miniatures, the armature is often wire bent into the appropriate shape.  You can also purchase lead armatures from several vendors that are already in proportion to a human in 28-30mm scale.  I have done both.

There are several sources of armatures from hobby suppliers.  Since most of you are familiar with Reaper, here are to from them.  Reaper online also sells green stuff.

Beginner Armatures from Reaper Miniatures 

Standard Armatures from Reaper Miniatures 

For weapons, staffs and things you need a rod or other larger form.  I use both plastic and brass rod for this.  Be aware that if you are planning to have your sculpture immortalized in metal, plastic may not be a good idea.  Plastic cannot hold up to production mold making.  For hobby purposes use whatever material is available and comfortable for you to work with.

TIP – Armature wire:  If you don’t have wire handy, you can use a paper clip bent into shape to form an armature.

The armature needs to be in proportion for the miniature you are working on.  Some sculptors actually piece the miniature together as they go.  Sculpting the chest and trunk first, then sculpting the head and adding it onto the chest, then sculpting arms and legs and adding them.  Other sculptors create the armature in the pose they want and then sculpt everything onto that frame.  As always, find a technique that works for you.  For me, I have done both depending on the situation.


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## pogre (Jun 9, 2005)

I agree almost completely. You can cast any miniature with rtv and gravity method - even those composed of plastic, wood, and other materials that will not withstand vulcanization. While gravity casting has very real limitations, it also yields some very fine results if you know what you are doing. You cannot achieve some of the things spincasting can do, but it is a cheaper alternative that may be attractive to the average home sculptor.

One thing I have done is create a sculpt with some materials like plastic. Then cast the figure with RTV. Then finished working on the figure over the pewter "armature" and finished it by sending it off for vulcanization and spin casting. Not the most efficient thing in the world but it works.

Carry on Nyrf - this thread is inspiring!


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## nyrfherdr (Jun 10, 2005)

*More Resources*

Two quick thoughts while I continue my efforts to recover my computer data.

1.  My wife just bought me an early Father's Day Gift.  It's an AWESOME reference book for both 2D artists and for sculptors.  It's especially nice for 2D, but you take what you can get.

ANATOMY FOR FANTASY ARTISTS by Glenn Fabry

It briefly covers human anatomy with excellent reference photos.  It then suggests that you use a strong grounding in Anatomy to make your fantastical creations look realistic.  His examples in the back include an Ogre, a dwarf, a goblin, several different females and a barbarian.  Very inspirational and a good reference book.

2.  Yahoo Group:  1listSculpting
I have been a lurking member of this group since I started sculpting 2 years ago.  It is a friendly, helpful group of sculptors of minis.  There is a great FAQ that covers what I'm describing in this thread and tons more.  People post their sculpts, offer tips and there is a regular 'Visions in Putty' sculpting effort where a theme is posted and sculptors create something to match the theme.  Don't be daunted by the fact that there are many professionals and top talent sculptors on the list.  There are an equal number of hobby enthusiasts like you and me.

Stay tuned.  When I get my data back, I'll be able to show you the tools I used and start showing you some of the techniques that work (and some that don't) for me.

Game ON!
Nyrfherdr


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## nyrfherdr (Jun 12, 2005)

*Tools*

Tools are a very personal thing and everyone has a favorite type and shape of tool that they use for sculpting.  Every sculptor has been asked what the ‘perfect’ tool is and there is no answer.  The key is to try lots of different tools to find one you are comfortable with.  Once you have a comfortable tool, the only answer to getting good results is to practice.




Figure 3

With that said, there are tools everyone uses.  The common tools for working with the armatures, bits, parts and the sculpting medium are pliers, tweezers, knife, drill, ruler and cutters (Figure 3).  In addition are the tools you would use to actually manipulate your sculpt (the sculpting tools themselves.)  Here is a stack of sculpting tools that I use (Figure 4).




Figure 4







 
Figure 5

Before you start scratching your head and wondering when you would use each of these tools, you should know that I don’t use most of them very often.  I have three tools I use almost all of the time.  I use an X-acto knife with a standard blade.  I use a pin glued into an old paint brush and I use a sculpting ‘blade’ and burnisher.  I also have a small frisket blade held tight in a pin vice I use when I work on faces. (Figure 5).  I do have a few specialized tools that I like and use.  They are all basically modified ‘tubes’ that can create buttons, screws, armor rivets, and things like that (Figure 6)




Figure 6

Now that you've seen all my tools, I can start showing you some sculpting.
Stay Tuned


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## Valanthe the Sleepless (Jun 13, 2005)

Lovin' it, Nyrf.    

Hey, for tools, would a clay sculpting tool set from a craft store (ala ACMoore or Michael's) fit the bill?


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## nyrfherdr (Jun 13, 2005)

Valanthe,
The clay sculpting tools at Michael's and others are usually too big.
You have to think small.

Games workshop sells a sculting tool that is OK.  It has what looks like a dull knife blade on one end and a flat spatula like thing on the other for burnishing.  It is one of the tools I use.

I also bought a set of tools at HobbyTown USA (they look like Dental tools, but not all bent)
They work pretty well too.

Think about 3 of the four tools I use the most... They are all improvised:

An X-acto blade...  It can do a lot. (always with care. It is SHARP of course)
A frisket blade held in a pin vise (basically the same shape as the X-acto blade but smaller (AND SHARP)).
A needle glued into the handle of a paintbrush.

In the book on Sculpting Miniature Military Figures by Kim Jones, he describes shaping the back end of paint brushes and then coating them with Glue or Varnish (to keep putty from sticking).

A sculptor I know in Portland almost universally uses the X-acto knife blade.

The main reason I use the GW tool is because the 'blade' end is dull (no chance of harm when I'm sculpting in the living room with my wife talking to me, my son showing me his latest Lego creation and the news running on the TV.  I really don't want a sharp blade in my hand and because of the spatula/burnisher on the other end.  I use that a lot.

I hope that helps.
Nyrf


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## JimAde (Jun 14, 2005)

Very informative stuff.  I'm trying to work up the ambition to do some minis modifications and I'm getting inspired!


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## pogre (Jun 14, 2005)

I sometimes make pattern tools for scales and such. I usually make a negative impression of the pattern in some Sculpy and then cook it. I can then roll the pattern over the green stuff to pattern scales, chain mail, or whatever.


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## nyrfherdr (Jun 14, 2005)

*Inspiration? More like Planning*

I bet you thought I was ready to start talking about sculpting!
Well... Not quite.

IN REVEIW:  What do you need to start?
You need to be comfortable with human and animal anatomy and proportions, preferably with ready reference material.
You need something to sculpt (a medium)
You need tools
You need an armature material or a ready made armature.

NEXT:  You need to decide what you want to sculpt
This is INSPIRATION! right.  I decide I want to sculpt a knight in shining armor and I'm ready to go.

Well.  A knight in shining armor is a fine idea for a sculpt. And I'll use it as my example for today (but probably not for later.  I don't do armor very well right now.)

PLAN:
Now that I made my decision of what to sculpt, I need to plan my sculpture.

If the Knight is human, I can use one of my ready made armatures. CHECK.
I know the proportions of a human and with the armature to keep me in line, I'm good there. CHECK
I don't know the first thing about armor though.  HMMM  See below.
What about weapons?  Am I going to use one from my bits box, or sculpt my own.  HMMM See below.
Shield, cloak, face?


REFERENCE PHOTOS/SKETCHES
Before putting blade to putty, it's best to do a few sketches (if you are so inclined) to get a feel for the pose, the look of the face and hands, the clothing/armor, etc.  Everything that will make up your mini.  
If you don't like to sketch, you can use Photographs or Artwork of others.
(Please remember that you cannot use other's work without permission if you are going to sell or enter a contest.)  If you are a hobby sculptor like me, feel free to use other's work at will.  Send the artist who inspired you a photo of your completed work.  They will likely be flattered.  Show photos of it in action on your game table.  That's always a hit.

For example:  I have sculpted the Monster Hunter, A dwarf, a WoldWarden, all creations of Privateer Press and their inspirational Iron Kingdoms.

If you use Photos, make sure you have an idea of what your work would look like in 3D!  Photos and artwork, however beautiful and inspirational are 2D.  When using Photos, I always search for multiple pictures, multiple angles and hopefully a few close-ups.

I sculpted an Owl familiar at one point.  I had a great photo of a spotted owl perched in a tree.  Gave me a great feel for the face.  It gave me no data on feet, legs, tail or what the wings would look like outspread (which my mini would be)  I had to get those photos too.

Back to the example of the knight in shining armor.
I still need:
   A face reference (I would normally sketch this myself, but photos and other art would work)
   Armor reference (medieval armor photos, lots of them.  Maybe some art.)
   Weapon (I have some in my bits box, so I'll call that good)
   Sheild (I have a shield in my bits box, so I'm good)
   I'm planning a cloak, so I'll need some draping photos and maybe some artwork for ideas.

Once you have your photos, sketches, and/or artwork, then you can begin sculpting.  Well not quite.   There are a couple of more steps I'll cover next time in Planning your mini.

TIP:  Sculpting a single mini can be an excercise in frustration because of the CURE process.  You MUST wait for each part to cure before starting another part or run the risk of ruining your hard work.  I don't try to speed up the cure process, but other sculptors do (with a heat box or by putting the work under a lightbulb).  I usually have several projects going at the same time.  When I finish part of one, I then move to the next, and so on.  If I finish up across all projects and curing is still not complete, I wait.  PATIENCE IS REQUIRED HERE.

TIP:  Look at your miniature collection and examine some of your favorites.  What makes them your favorite.  What would you want to include in your own work from those.  Also look at your least favorites.  What makes them less appealing?  You'll want to avoid that in your own sculptures.  Knowing what effect you are looking for and how it looks will help you when working on your own sculptures.

Next... Using your references to plan your project.
Stay Tuned...  Photos probably this weekend (Woo Hoo)


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## nyrfherdr (Jun 23, 2005)

*Planning your Sculpt*

Once you have done your research, you need to plan your miniature.  This is where you decide what kind of armature, what proportion, decide on the pose and how you are going to do each stage to insure that everything will fit together.  Using an owl as an example, you need to make sure your armature will be the right size for an owl familiar.  Then whether the wings will be spread or not, will the owl be on your wizard’s arm or on a tree limb or whatever
These decisions made, you decide the steps to sculpt.  Head first?  Feet first? Etc.  Remember that all of the mediums described here require that you build up or add on, not carve or remove.  You will add some putty to the body, let it cure, add details and then form to the wings, add detail, then forms for the head.  This is where planning will make your project easier.

TIP – Armature poses:  Even if you are sculpting from a complete armature, leave the arms of the model out of the way.  You can sculpt the body and chest, etc, then bend the arms into position and sculpt them.  Otherwise, the arms will be in the way of detail you are looking to sculpt.


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## nyrfherdr (Jun 23, 2005)

*Sculpting:  First steps*

Here is where the rubber meets the road.  This is the part that I will mostly just show and hopefully you will take some useful tips with you.  I’m going to review some techniques that I have learned to going a bit easier.  Otherwise, you’ll mostly need to practice on your own.

Starting with Faces:
When doing faces, I have found that it is easiest to sculpt the head/face separate from the miniature.  While proportions can be challenging, having the face separate allows for multiple attempts and complete access to the features of the face.  In Figure 11, I have 2 balls of green stuff as a form.  These are in proportion to a human head at about 28-30mm scale.  The easiest method is to make a ball smaller then the head of a mini in your collection.




FIGURE 11

Once you have your form cured, you then sculpt a face on.  Use your reference books for keeping proper proportions and shape the face accordingly.  Start with simple male and female archetypes until you have a good feel for the proportions otherwise your minis will look like caricatures instead of people.  Figure 12 is a completed face.  I’ve already added it to an armature and started adding form to the figure.  You can see how the arms are out of the way.  The facial expression is simple.  I usually add the hair later because there might be a collar, a hood or something else to interfere with it if I sculpted it now.  The tools I use to sculpt the face are the small frisket blade, the burnishing tool and the pin.  Success comes with practice.




FIGURE 12

Figure 13 shows a face in progress where an attempt is made to show teeth and lips will be added later.  I’m not sure whether or not the eyes will be redone yet or not.  I’m still contemplating that.  A humanoid nose of some kind needs to be added as well.  





FIGURE 13

TIP – Sculpting faces:  Using the technique of sculpting the face separately, if the face isn’t any good, cut off the part you don’t like and use the remaining bit as the form for your second attempt.  Don’t be afraid to try it again.

TIP 2 - Scultping faces:  Many sculptors feel that you need to do the whole face all in one shot.  That is 'the only way' to make sure everything is even and in proportion.  I feel that most of the face should be done in one go, but sometimes not.  Like the gobber above.  Do what works for you.  Try it both ways.


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## pogre (Jun 24, 2005)

I am so lovin' this thread. I really appreciate your efforts!


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## Stormrunner (Jun 26, 2005)

AH, you've just cleared up a mystery for me!  I'd come across a couple of packs of strange little humanoid figures, labeled "Dollies" and "Advanced Dollies".  I figured they were supposed to be some sort of constructs or golems, but the sculpting wasn't very detailed   so I never bothered to buy them.  If they'd called them "armatures" on the box things would have been a lot clearer!


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## pogre (Jun 29, 2005)

Nyrf,

Had an idea  - dangerous thing that...

Are you familiar with VIP (visions in putty)?

It's a thing on the sculpt list where they come up with a concept and everyone shares the sculpt they made of the basic idea. I was thinking when you are close to winding this thread up (and we are all similarly enlightened) we might try doing something like that. Even if it was just a couple of us posting wips it would be pretty cool.

Just an idea...

pogre


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## nyrfherdr (Jun 30, 2005)

Pogre... Cool idea.  I am very familiar with VIP, although I haven't submitted anything.  It has actually spawned several of my mini ideas.
I'd be happy to coordinate a similar concept here once I finish my articles.

As to the sculpting articles:
I have the second phase of face sculpting coming this weekend (hopefully)
Then I'll cover anatomy/skin/hair
Then a little something on clothing
Then a little something on armor
Finish with accessorizing...
(not necessarily in that order...)

That will take a couple of weeks at the minimum!

Game ON!
Nyrfherdr


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## pogre (Jul 2, 2005)

nyrfherdr said:
			
		

> Pogre... Cool idea.  I am very familiar with VIP, although I haven't submitted anything.  It has actually spawned several of my mini ideas.
> I'd be happy to coordinate a similar concept here once I finish my articles.




Excellent! I realize you have a lot left on this thread, but I just wanted to throw the idea out there. 

Here's another idea:

I could make RTV molds of completed projects and cast pewter miniatures from them. Everyone would have to pony up $5 or so for postage, but I would handle the rest. It might serve as an incentive - kind of like what they do in VIP. Everyone would then get a pewter copy of everyone else's efforts. 

What do you think?


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## nyrfherdr (Jul 5, 2005)

Here's the next article in this fascinating series.
Photos to come.  The camera ended up used in the 4th of July festivities so I must retake some of my pics.  I'll post them in a few days.

Pogre:  I love the idea.  We can start almost any time.   I'll continue to add articles to this thread as I have the time and inspiration...


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## nyrfherdr (Jul 5, 2005)

*Faces - Part Ii*

More on faces:

Once you have some oval shapes on the end of a pin or wire, you have the makings of a head for a miniature.  The next step is to create a face.  Add some putty to your cured roll and start shaping.  It is OK to rough out the shape and then let it cure again, although many sculptors recommend against that.  They feel strongly that the best faces are done in one sitting because everything stays in proportion and you don’t end up with out of balance features.
Speaking of proportions, keeping faces in proportion is probably the most difficult.  It isn’t so much keeping the face in proportion to itself (eyes, nose and ears the right size for the head you have created, it is keeping the head in 30mm).  Working in 28-30mm scale means keeping things pretty small.  You’ll find that you often make something look really good, only to find it is 2-3 times bigger than it should be.

Also… You don’t need very much putty (green stuff) for a face.  A very small bit for a nose, a little ball for each ear, etc.  

It is best to put fresh putty on the face where you want it for maximum adhesion and then work it on the face into the shape you want.  

Always start with a basic shape of the face, square for a human male, more heartshape for a human female (I’m not that good at females, personally).  Other shapes for non-humans.  Once that is in the right shape and size, start adding details.  

Eyes are the most important.  These should definitely be done at the same time.  You can’t match them up in separate sittings.  At least I have never seen that done successfully.
Press in the brow and eye socket and then add a little more putty into each socket to be the eyeball and eyelid.  You can make a simple eye just by flattening a small ball into the standard ‘oval-like’ shape of an eye and lid.  If you are a good painter you can turn this into a quality look.

If you are more adventurous, you can create a lid for your eyes.  This is obviously the most dramatic, but also the least visible on the tabletop.  It depends on what you want to accomplish with your sculpt.

The nose can be a simple roll of putty, or you can add nostrils and shape the bridge to meet the needs of your Roman aristocrat, etc.  It depends on your skill level and how adventurous you are.   Remember that a woman’s nose should be understated, unless you are looking to make a crone of some kind.  When doing women’s faces it is probably even more important to stick with the standards of proportion and Classical norms than in a man’s face.

Ears are simple a ball that you press into with rounded tool to create the internal shape of the ear.  You’ll find that they become too big very quickly.  Always look at the ears from the front to insure that you have them even.
It is OK to skip the ears entirely if hair, hood, hat or helmet will cover it.
Same goes for hair.  I usually wait to do hair until I have more of the mini done, because armor and clothing often cover parts of the head.


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## pogre (Jul 5, 2005)

How much do you work the cheekbone structure? - it seems like some of my favorite sculptors have a knack for doing cheekbones really well. My attempts thus far have been poor at best.


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## pogre (Jul 5, 2005)

nyrfherdr said:
			
		

> Pogre:  I love the idea.  We can start almost any time.   I'll continue to add articles to this thread as I have the time and inspiration...




Well, I can brainstorming ideas while this thread continues to grow in length with valuable information. My initial thought is some sort of Satyr/Pan/Beastman/woman. My only request is that we keep it fantasy based.


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## nyrfherdr (Jul 6, 2005)

*Sculpting Faces*

Photos in reference to above tips...

In this photo you can see that the skull is actually too big for the scale.




In this photo you can see the tool I use for eyes and noses...




In this photo is a tool I use for ears.  Sometimes I use the tool above first.  Or a pin that isn't so small.




Here's another look at the face without tools in the way...




And here are several different character studies...




















These last two are projects under way...

Here is a head of a Dwarf/Half-Fiend something or other (He's a BBEG I'm sculpting for an upcoming climactic battle)




Another BBEG that will actually be faced by the same adventurers earlier in the campaign.  She is known as 'The Red Queen' and she is the mother of the above Dwarf/Half-Fiend.




Next Article will be on body anatomy... I hope.  My schedule is getting more hectic by the moment.

Game ON!
Nyrfherdr


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## nyrfherdr (Jul 6, 2005)

Pogre:  I wanted to have some reference photos before answering your question on cheekbones.

As you can see in the photos, cheekbones are very important.  
If you shape the 'skull' first and then add details, often the cheekbones come out easier and better, but it depends a bit on serendipity.

Frankly, some of my best faces started as character studies/practice, vs. trying hard to get a specific look.  But remember, I'm not commissioning my work, so a specific look isn't required.  I only have to meet my own standards.

TIP:  Finish what you start.  It is OK to 'give up' on something that is truly not good or you are unhappy with, but it is actually better to complete the project.  Completed work gives you something done, accomplished and something to be proud of.  I even paint my completed projects, even if I'm not happy with them.  The character studies in the photos above will become miniatures.  I've only left them as heads for this article series.

TIP:  Keep those early projects/failed experiments.  They will contrast greatly with your later work and work you are more proud of.

Later in this series of fascinating articles that have captured the imagination of the entire ENWorld community, I will be posting pictures of completed work with critiques of my own to give you an idea of things to watch out for.  As your 3rd grade teacher told you... Making mistakes is one of the best ways to learn.  And I've learned a LOT!

Game ON!
Nyrfherdr


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## pogre (Jul 20, 2005)

Hey nyrf a question:

Not sure if this is a good place for it so forgive the derailing...

I am planning to cut the face off of one figure to use on another. I have a saw for the purpose. I'm just trying to figure out how to brace the figure I'm going to remove the face from. Suggestions? Feel free to respond elsewhere if you would rather not polute your thread here.

Thanks!


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## nyrfherdr (Jul 20, 2005)

Pogre,
No worries on the thread, although I was trying to keep it somewhat focused.  It is a public forum afterall.

Anyway on to your question...

A friend in Portland would hold minis in one hand and use the jewelers saw in the other.   With patience and extreme care he could make some very delicate cuts.  I can't do that.

I use a vice.  I have a small jewellers vice I got from my father in law.  It looks just like a shop vice, but it is only about the size of a fist.  
Depending on the mini, you have to wrap it in cloth, or leather and then not tighten too much.  You want the mini stable, but you don't want to crush any of the pewter. 
If the mini pose makes this difficult, you can create a holder using a couple of pieces of wood.  Put the wood on the mini and then vice clamp the wood.  This allows more freedom to clamp the mini at the chest and have the arms of the mini not be bent or crushed.  It's hard to describe in words. 

Then I can use the jewelers saw with more freedom and make sure I'm cutting exactly what I want.  Since the cut is vertical, a vice is pretty ideal.

Good luck and Game ON!
Nyrfherdr

I've seen a rubber ended clamp affair used once, but I never found out where he got it.  It was slick because the rubber wrapped around the mini a bit.


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## nyrfherdr (Jul 20, 2005)

*Sculpting the body*

Here is the next article.  Photos to come soon.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I’ll go out on a limb and say that faces are probably the most important part of a sculpt.  The composition should draw the eye to that face you’ve spent so much time making perfect.  It must be the art training talking, but that’s just how I see things.

After sculpting your perfect face, the rest of the anatomy needs attention.  What you will find with my favorite medium, green stuff, is that it handles skin very well.  You can create a smooth skinned amazon woman, or a ripple-muscled barbarian relatively easily (everything is relative though).  Using your reference material, you should be able to create almost any type of person.

Proportion is as important here as it was on the face.  Make sure you keep things on target.  The legs, arms and torso should match the figure you are looking to create.  Your armature is your friend here.  I’ve found that it is best to start a couple of mini’s using an existing armature, like the ones from Reaper.  Once you get a feel for the proportions in 28mm you can start making your own out of wire.

Sculpting bodies:
There are a couple of approaches available to the mini sculptor.

•	You can start with the torso.  This works well in that the torso is the most static component.  You create the muscle tone and musculature that will define the legs and arms.  If you start with the torso, you can even leave off the leg and arm wires until you are done.  This will allow you to easily shape the body without working around anything.
o	Once you are happy you then drill a hole, add a wire for the legs and then sculpt those in the pose.
o	Or you can drill holes add wire for arms and sculpt those.
•	You can start with the feet and move up the body.  Your armature is pretty much already in the pose you want and you start adding details ‘on the way up.’ 

In both cases you build up.  Add some putty, shape it, let it cure, add more.  If you make a mistake, you can always cut away the part you don’t like and try again.  I have used both methods.  The torso method and it’s variations is becoming a favorite of mine.  You have to be extra careful of proportions, but I find my sculpting has been better in this case.

Hands and Feet:
•	Feet can be a challenge.  You have to make them look right and be small at the same time.  Obviously if you are covering them with shoes, boots, etc. you only need to rough out a shape.  Otherwise, spend some extra time here.  Details really do make a difference.  Don’t be afraid to make toenails.  I’ll provide some tips on how to do that at the end of this article.
•	Hands are almost as important as faces.  Many people ‘skimp’ on hands.  Give them the attention they deserve.  Create all 4 fingers and make sure the thumb is in a realistic place.  Try to shape the knuckles slightly.  Remember that hands can be mostly smooth.  Even the most muscular barbarian, doesn’t have too many ‘finger’ muscles defined.  
•	TIP:  If you make your hands too big don’t fret.  Turn them into gloves or gauntlets.  Your hands in gauntlets will be bigger and your attention to detail won’t be wasted.  Just add a cuff on the wrist and you now have leather gauntlets.

If you are adding clothing/armor:
•	It is absolutely necessary to rough out the basic forms even if you are going to cover them with clothing.  Fabric drapes in a specific way across the body.  If you don’t have something underneath the putty that becomes the clothing, it is much more difficult to get the draping right.
•	Some sculptors do more than rough out the form.  They sculpt musculature and everything.  I don’t do this, but you can’t argue with the results.  
•	Another reason to rough out the form of the body before adding clothing is to make sure of your proportions, once again.  Cloth adds bulk to a body, not height, so having the arms and legs done before adding helps keep things as realistic as possible.  

Sculpting Tips:
•	A burnishing tool is a must here.  The body, even a muscular one, is smooth.  A burnisher will smooth the green stuff to almost a sheen.  One the green stuff is no longer tacky is the perfect time to burnish.  Burnishing is basically just rubbing the smooth tool over your sculpt to smooth and polish it.  Be careful not to push too hard as the putty will change shape with the pressure of the tool.
•	Remember that burnishing can get accidental finger prints off the mini too.
•	For feet, I’ve found that it works well to shape the foot as one object first.  Once you are happy with the anatomy of the foot and basic shape, then using your sharp knife, slice the front of the foot into toes.  Remember to round them afterwards.  Aside from the big toe, the others will be very small.
•	After rounding the toes, it’s time for toenails.  Most of the time, I only create one for the big toe, but it all depends on the sculpt.  I’ve found the easiest is to press a small rounded blade flat on the toe, and then with a sharp blade, press in underneath and in two steps you have a pretty good representation of a toenail.
•	For hands, I spend more time.  I rough out the shape, cut in the fingers and shape the knuckles a bit.  You can take a sharp blade and cut a few ridges for knuckles that look pretty good.  Use a small rounded blade for fingernails, just like toenails.  
•	If you are going for the heroic musculature, the best method for muscle groups should be built up.  I create small cigars of putty and use them for individual muscles.  You place them in the right place and then shape them into flexed or relaxed pose.  This makes for very dynamic musculature.  It is time consuming and you must be careful to burnish as you go because burnishing doesn’t work well in nooks and crannies.

I think that’s about all the useful information I can impart in an article on the human form.  In my experience, the human body is where everyone works the hardest.  Because of that, you find excellent representations at all scales.  You will also find lots of books and reference material on the subject.
In my next article I’ll try and show that even with top notch anatomy, draping clothing properly can make or break your sculpt.  Many of the professionals I have corresponded with enjoy draping more because it has become the bigger challenge.  I think that’s only because they have mastered the human form, but that’s just my opinion.
Until next time…
Game ON!


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## redkobold (Aug 9, 2005)

I am a figure sculptor and I have collected a lot of articles and written some "how to" articles at my site.  Go check it out as well as all of the links and the webring I manage that connects to other folks sculpting sites.


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## nyrfherdr (Aug 10, 2005)

Kevin,
Thanks!  I've been to your site and there's some good stuff there.

Thanks,
H


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## Alf (Aug 24, 2005)

Nice articles. just read through most of it.

If I may share a great anatomical reference. It's THE anatomical reference book used in art schools and very useful: "Anatomia" by Jenö barlsay.

I would also argue that the torso is the most static point. Quite on the contrary I feel that much of the dynamic feel of a sculpt centers around the waist/hip area and the twisting of the spinal column. Making the torso to "blocky" is a sure way to give the sculpt a "stiff" feel.

As an old anatomy model I may also add that FEELING the pose in your own body is an invaluable way to get a feel for above all the weight distribution and balance of the pose. Stand in the intended pose - preferably in front of a mirror - and feel : On which foot is the weight heaviest? How does your hipline slant in relatin to your shoulders? Were is the most strain on your body? Probably in a place were your muscles have to contract to keep the pose balanced. And so forth.
And of course distributing the weight of the pose so that you can NOT hold the pose for more than a second or so without losing your balance is a great way to get a feeling of motion in your sculpt.


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## nyrfherdr (Aug 25, 2005)

Thanks Alf.
I've got more coming... Hopefully soon.  Work is pretty busy.

Thanks for the book tip.  I hope everyone keeps their reference library growing.  I know that I do.

In re-reading, I see where you are coming from.  I certainly never wanted to leave the impression that the torso was static, but that it was usually more static than the rest of the bits to be sculpted.
Everyone needs to keep in mind that you will come at things from a different perspective.  What works for me may not work for you.  Try to pick up tips from everyone.

Don't sweat it!  As I am prone to say at work... No Worries!

I would suggest that a beginning sculptor start with basic anatomy and form before moving too much into motion.  Let's take this in stages.  Sculpting is already hard.  I don't want people to get discouraged.  You can do this!

Game ON!
Nyrfherdr


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## Patrick Keith (Sep 7, 2005)

I have recently spent the last few days scouring places on the net for sculpting resources to compile for my own personal use (which was how I came across this topic). This looked like a good place to share them with other folks interested in sculpting minis.

Tools/Supplies
http://www.sculpt.com/
http://www.magicsculp.com/
http://www.micromark.com/
http://www.jeffvalentstudios.com/
http://www.ebobminiatures.com/

Mini sculptors/companies
http://www.reapermini.com/
http://www.ironwindmetals.com/
http://www.sacredblademiniatures.com/
http://www.magnificentegos.com
http://www.hasslefreeminiatures.co.uk/
http://www.freebooterminiatures.com/
http://www.spyglassminiatures.com
http://www.heresyminiatures.com/
http://www.fortressfigures.com/
http://www.andrea-miniatures.com/
http://www.bronzeagemin.com/
http://www.lyonstudio.com/
http://www.thunderboltmountain.com/


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## nyrfherdr (Sep 8, 2005)

Hey Patrick.
Thanks for the links.  Excellent resources all.

I do plan on adding a few more tips in the future.  I've just been extremely busy at work and actually sculpting some stuff in my spare time.

Thanks for keeping the thread going Patrick.
Game ON!
Nyrfherdr


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