# Painting Miniatures Guide



## pogre

Painting Miniatures Guide

Greetings! In the last few weeks a number of folks have asked for advice on basic painting. I firmly believe it is possible not only for anyone to paint miniature to a table top level, but to rapidly increase their skills in the hobby with just a bit of dedication. I hope this thread can serve as a sort of table of contents for folks and if you think there are some links I should add, please post them!

*Basic Painting*
*Games Workshop’s Tutorial* has a few useful articles. Naturally, they are trying to sell you some product, but it still is solid advice from an industry leader. 
Tools and Brushes
Spray Primering
Step-by-step tutorials for various models


*J.D. Wiker* has some decent basic tips to get you started
Miniatures 101
Miniatures 102
Miniatures 103
Miniatures 104

*Sven Adrian* has a different technique worthy of consideration on coolminiornot:
Step-by-step painting Easterlings

*Jakob Nielsen* has a solid step-by-step tutorial of a GW Chaos Warrior:
JRN Chaos Warrior step-by-step 

*Mike Kan* mostly paints GW, but he paints pretty quickly and has lots of tips for painting lots of clean, well done, table top standard figures quickly:
Mike Kan Paint


*Paint References*
Totengraber has begun a really cool paint database that gives swatches and matching colors for other lines of paint. Still a bit of a work in progress, but very cool!
Totengraber's Paint Database 


*Techniques*
One of my favorite painters is *Jenova!* Who is very generous with her knowledge.
Jenova!’s site - has not updated in ages.

NMM
*Thierry Husser* a very skilled painter who does mostly Rackham stuff has posted an excellent full color chart of his NMM fomulas:
Color chart for NMM 

INKS
*Total Model* has a nice basic article on the uses of acryllic inks:
Painting with Inks 

Metallics
*Jakob Rune Nielsen* has won numerous Golden Demons and posts an excellent tutorial on painting metallics:
JRN Metallics Tutorial 

*Shading Metallics*
Shading Metallics by Automaton
Shading Metallics by Jabberwocky

*MIG Productions* has produced a cool article on using dry pigments to weather metallics. 
Using Colored Pigment Powder to Weather Metallics and More! 

Blending
*Oz Painters* has a solid thread on using transparent glazes to blend - he calls them juices.
Juices for blending


Dipping
Here is a cool article on dipping figures in poly stain for speed painting. I have used it on Eastern Indians to great effect!
DIPPING FIGURES IN MINWAX POLYSHADE 

*The Army Painter* is a company that produces a ton of stuff for speed painting. They have three kinds of dips, base spray paints, base terrain, and now a new line of paints. The site hosts a number of "how-to" articles. I've used their products for painting historicals and it is good stuff. They are a worthy resource for those looking to paint a lot of troops quickly!
THE ARMY PAINTER COMPANY

Faces
*Jen Haley* is the queen of painting without peer in the states. Her painting a face article is particularly helpful!
new page her articles thus far:
Painting Faces
Painting Freehands
Choosing & Using Brushes

*Reaper* has a tutorial on painting eyes by Darin Hlavaz. Thanks Lord Tirian for the scoop.
Eye Tutorial

Wings
*Necromancer Tales* brings us a lot of cool tutorials including this one on scratch built wings.
Scratch Built Wings 

Gems

*ZaPhOd's* has a neat tutorial on painting translucent gems:
Complex Gems

Lighting Effects
*Iron Halo* has a very interesting article on painting a blue lighting effect:
Blue Lighting Effect 

Hair
*Darkstar* over at Reaper's message board does some of the most awesome hair I have ever seen. He explains his techinique in this thread:
Hair tutorial. 

Horses
*Veni Vidi Vici* has an excellent section on painting horses:
Painting Horses on VVV 

Stone
Texturing Granite article on Hot Lead:
Texturing Granite 

Textured Wood
An article over on hot-lead.org on painting textured wood:
Painting Textured Wood 

*Bases*
*Frank the DM's * Marble bases
Quick and easy marble bases 

*Make bases like Rackham*
Rackham style corkbase

*Brush Thralls* outstanding bases
Bases on Brushthralls

I have found articles on the net to be very helpful, but one other resource that should be employed is message boards like Reaper’s where excellent painters are always anxious to share their knowledge. When I have more time I will further organize links into techniques, but this certainly is more than enough to get someone started!

Have fun!


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## Keith Robinson

Wow. There's lots of excellent stuff there.

Thanks, pogre.  Great thread.


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## Cthulhu's Librarian

Pogre, thanks for starting what can be a great thread resource! I've got a ton of sites bookmarked at work, I'll try to add some of them tomorrow.


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## IronWolf

Excellent!  This thread needs stickied!


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## Cthulhu's Librarian

A few more mini painting pages:

"Dipping" miniatures to get highlights and shadow (unusual technique, but can give good results): http://www-personal.umich.edu/~beattie/dip.html

Hot Lead (basic & advanced techniques-fire, marble, wood, etc.): http://hot-lead.org/


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## collin

Pogre:

Excellent list you put together.  I might have missed it, but another site for listing miniature painting sites is

http://miniature-painting.net/links_painting.html

They have weblinks to many of the same sites you mentioned and then some.

-collin


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## pogre

bumped for easy reference.

If you find a broken link let me know please.


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## pogre

Updates with part 2 of the cork base tutorial. Very selfish update as I plan to use this tomorrow 

Also added the Raging Gaijin's film tutorial on blending.


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## pogre

Added a section on painting horses.


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## Zulithe

Thanks so much pogre. This is an invaluable resource. There are several painting guides online but yours lays it out in a clear, concise way.


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## pogre

Zulithe said:
			
		

> Thanks so much pogre. This is an invaluable resource. There are several painting guides online but yours lays it out in a clear, concise way.




Hey you're welcome!

The truth is I use it as I'm painting and as I need/find new stuff I just throw it up on my list. 

I welcome any and all additions you might bring to the table. If you find a cool painting article on the web by all means mention it and I'll try to get it up here.


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## Shape D.

hey pogre, Would you be able to tell us what brands of paint brushes, or paints you would reccomend.   I currently use atlas brushes myself but I'm just wondering if theres anything else out there that would be worth a try.


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## pogre

Shape D. said:
			
		

> hey pogre, Would you be able to tell us what brands of paint brushes, or paints you would reccomend.   I currently use atlas brushes myself but I'm just wondering if theres anything else out there that would be worth a try.




Hey Shape D.!

I will frankly admit to a bit of snobbery in this area. I use Vallejo paints and Windsor & Newton #7 Kolinsky Miniature brushes. ASW Express is the best deal for these brushes I've found. They are not cheap, but use one and you will know why EVERY major painter uses them. They are dream to work with!

I'm less adamant about the paint. I have seen people do a nice job with craft paints from Walmart. It can be done - but it is more work. Formulated miniature paints are most certainly worth the money and my personal preference is for Vallejo. 

I recently had the opportunity to use some of Reaper's new line of paints - The Master Series Paints. I liked them a lot - they use a tri-color system that systemizes shading and hilighting. If I did not have a full set of the Vallejo I would collect more of them. 

These suggestions I have made are not cheap, but let me give you something cheap that will last forever and you will love. Go to an art & hobby store and grab a silicoil brush rinse jar. It should run you about $4.00 and very effectively clean your brushes. I have one I bought five years ago and it continues to work very well for me.

Good luck - I hope these comments were helpful to you. Remember, these are not laws - just opinions - although the comments about kolinsky brushes are more like laws


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## Shape D.

pogre said:
			
		

> Hey Shape D.!
> 
> I will frankly admit to a bit of snobbery in this area. I use Vallejo paints and Windsor & Newton #7 Kolinsky Miniature brushes. ASW Express is the best deal for these brushes I've found. They are not cheap, but use one and you will know why EVERY major painter uses them. They are dream to work with!



Those seem like they are about the same price as what I'd pay for other brushes at a gaming store. I'll give 'em a try though. The paints I use now are mainly reapers pro-paints and the citidel paints from games workshop. 



			
				pogre said:
			
		

> Go to an art & hobby store and grab a silicone coil brush rinse jar. It should run you about $4.00 and very effectively clean your brushes. I have one I bought five years ago and it continues to work very well for me.



I've gone into four stores now in my city and they all look at me like I've been spraying loads of primer in an enclosed area. (although I get that fairly often) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





is this the thing your talking about? If so I'll give one a try. 

And thanks for your advice and starting this thread. Its helping already.


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## pogre

Yeah - silicoil - that's what I meant - jeez sorry about that! I just ordered some silicone for a project I'm working on and must have had it on the brain - sorry for the misdirection!

I also put up a new link to a tutorial on hair that rocks!


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## The Madhatter

pogre said:
			
		

> I also put up a new link to a tutorial on hair that rocks!




Is anyone else having problems with the hair technique link? I'll try again later.


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## pogre

The Madhatter said:
			
		

> Is anyone else having problems with the hair technique link? I'll try again later.




Reaper's server was down earlier today. Seems to work fine at this moment.


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## The Madhatter

Yes, that is an amazing fig. I don't think I'm quite good enough to emulate his job with the hair though.


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## frankthedm

bump


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## pogre

Added a couple of new sequential links.


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## pogre

Added two new basing articles.


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## pogre

Added a lovely new step-by-step from the UK Rackham board.


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## Umbran

Excellent.  Just as I'm about to shake the rust off what little skill I have for a project, I find this.  Spiffy!


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## pogre

Added another step-by-step.


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## pogre

NMM Gold Recipe

From the amazing Ark of Rackham fame:
_The colors I use for NMM Gold are Green Ochre 914 for the dark zones, Light Yellow 949 for the light zones and White 951 for the brightness. _ 

BTW - the colors he is referring to are Vallejo Model color.


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## pogre

Added Totengraber's paint color database and TH's NMM recipes.


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## frankthedm

[sblock=Fast & Easy marble bases]*Fast & Easy marble bases*

Ever looked at marble tile and thought a base that looked like that would be great?  Only to be stopped by the amount of work that it would take?

Perhaps it will take less work than you think....

There are 100s of cheap vinyl tiles on the market and many home supply stores do sell individual tiles. I have even found them in dollar stores. 

You’ll need:

A 1’ square vinyl tile with adhesive backing.
A base, square bases will be the easiest to cut the tile for.
A marker or pen.
A Blade; razor, X-acto, box cutter etc.
A straight edge to guide the blade for a proper cut.
A small drill bit for insert holes
A painted mini to look good on the base.

http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/846/marbletilegiit4.gif






 [/sblock]


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## pogre

Added FranktheDM's marble bases to the links. Thanks Frank - I got to try that!


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## Herremann the Wise

Hi Pogre and fellow Painters,

The following by ***_Mario Fuentes_ seems a worthy addition to your page:

*Mario Fuentes - Basic Tutoral*

It's on the Vallejo website and is a good basic painting tutorial that emphasises the importance of watering down your paints as well as other classic fundamentals. I highly recommend this.

***To get to the tutorial, you need to select your preferred language (English flag), select "Model Color" option), go to the bottom of the page and select the "introduction" link. A little awkward I know but it really is an excellent tutorial.

Best Regards
Herremann the Wise

PS: Mods, does this excellent thread deserve being stickied or what?


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## frankthedm

Herremann the Wise said:
			
		

> ***To get to the tutorial, you need to select your preferred language (English flag), select "Model Color" option), go to the bottom of the page and select the "introduction" link. A little awkward I know but it really is an excellent tutorial.



Actually, just right clicking on the link and "copy shortcut" worked for me

Direct link to english article

ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolortecnicas#modelcolortecnica01

Yes, Make this thread sticky!


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## pogre

Great link - thanks guys! You know I had seen that article in a book a few years ago, but had no idea it was on the web. Very cool! Especially as I use a lot of Vallejo product


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## pogre

Just added a couple of links from Jakob Rune Nielsen's excellent site. JRN is a multiple golden demon winner and he does really cool stuff. I added his step-by-step Chaos Warrior and his metallics tutorial. For what its worth his metallics tutorial is very close to what I do these days.


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## pogre

Added another step-by-step.


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## pogre

Added an article.


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## IcyCool

It's a wee bit complicated, but there is a nice tutorial on painting lighting (light sourcing) effects over at IronHalo.


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## pogre

IcyCool said:
			
		

> It's a wee bit complicated, but there is a nice tutorial on painting lighting (light sourcing) effects over at IronHalo.




Cool article - I added it to the list. Much thanks!


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## pogre

Added new step-by-step link.


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## smootrk

I recently just got back into mini painting.  This thread is great, and definitely deserves a sticky in this forum.

Maybe I should use the report a thread button to bring this to the attention of the mods - to convince them of its value.


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## pogre

smootrk said:
			
		

> I recently just got back into mini painting.  This thread is great, and definitely deserves a sticky in this forum.
> 
> Maybe I should use the report a thread button to bring this to the attention of the mods - to convince them of its value.




LOL

Well, sticky threads rarely get read.

Let's just keep adding resources to it and bumping it every once in a while


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## pogre

Added an article on blending from wyrd-games. Very interesting ideas and well worth checking out.


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## pogre

Added an article on re-painting D&D plastics. Thanks for the link Lalato!


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## DethStryke

Ditto on the sentiments that this is awesome and should be pinned. 

I've been doing a lot of research, trying to improve my miniature painting station and how I go about the hobby... two of the best improvements I've found/come up with are helping to light the miniature better when photographing them and how to mount them easily with a handle for priming/spraying/painting/etc. Sorry, I'm not a cool kid with ultra hip Hide/Show skillz. What's the tag for that?

*Better lighting through Chemistry*:
http://www.instructables.com/id/E6VQS8JNGQEWPKH4JG/

Using this method, I can use a 100 watt light from my painting station to illuminate the whole miniature - it doesn't even have to be a constant fixture and takes less room than every other setup I've used.

-------------
*Getting a Grip*:

The nexus of this idea was a combination of my existing handles (shaker pegs with blue tack holding the miniature on the top) and Jakob Nielson's transporting mini tip from here:

http://www.jrn-works.dk/tutorials/tut.php?tut=transportingMinis&lan=eng

I had not been super happy with the blue tack... it seemed that I was going through too much of it and it would not hold as well any more (maybe they changed the formula?). I saw the little bolt & nut combo and looked at my pegs and said to myself, "self, you have got to marry those ideas!" I really liked the secure nature of the hardware, but I find the shaker pegs to be hand friendly (I have large hands - enough to palm a basketball - so holding a small little block of wood or some nonsense is cramp city).

Here is my process:

This one is definitely not as easy to do without some specific tools. I will edit this if I find a better way of doing it - I'm still experimenting with the best way to produce the end result. The tools I used were as follows:
* Dremel Rotary Tool
* Miniature drill bits (specifically a 3/32 bit - can be found in some deluxe regular drill bit kits)
* Cut-off wheel (one made to cut metal) for the Dremel
* #4-40 x 3/4" Machine Bolts w/ nuts
* a screwdriver for the bolts (probably flat head... the wrench item that the Dremel comes with works well!)
* Shaker Pegs
* Zap-A-Gap.
Warning: Never use the the Dremel without hand and eye protection! Bits of whatever into your eye-ball does not equate to a good time. You should also use a vice to hold the pegs while you drill and cut things off... I don't, but I'm dumb like that.

1. Take a shaker peg and use the drill bit with the Dremel to drill a hole roughly 1/4"-3/16" deep in the center of the rounded end. 
  - _Tip: Use masking tape on the drill bit to mark the depth if you like, so you can see how far you're going on the fly._
  - _Tip: You want this hole to be as straight as you can possibly make it, otherwise you're going to have figs that lean over the edge or won't fit on the peg nicely. If you're lucky enough to have a drill press (real or for the Dremel), this will make it a lot easier_

2. Dab a bit of Zap-A-Gap on the last 1/4" of the #4-40 bolt. Screw this glued wonder into the hole you just made. You should need a screwdriver to get it to bite into the wood - if it simply drops in then you made too wide of a hole.
  - _Tip: Do not use pliers or something akin to hold the bolt while you do this! You do not want to chance doing damage the threads that will be above the wood or the whole point of this is shot and pointless._

2.5. Let that dry for a bit. Should be ready in an hour, so go do something else for a spell...

3. Welcome back! Now we cut the head off the bolt using the cut-off wheel on the Dremel. This is going to leave us with the nib for screwing in the bolts that we will glue to the bottom of the figs base. I prefer to make it the width of the bolt, so that the fig sits snugly perched on the apex of the rounded top. You can feel free to make it however long you wish. Error on the side of caution and start longer than you need. That way if you mess it up, you can always just cut off a little bit more.
  - _Tip: When you shear the head off, try to do it in one smooth controlled cut. If you stop and start, you will most likely have a funky ridge that will not allow you to screw the bolt on (threads get weird)._

4. Glue the #4-40 bolt to the underside of the miniature's base that you want to hold. I use the #4-40 size hardware because I also use GW bases, and these hide flush with the base when it's in use. Bigger / deeper bases can, of course, accommodate larger nuts.
  - _Tip: As Jakob notes, you can use a bit of Green Stuff to hold the bolt on there better. Score the spot you're gluing to with a razer to rough it up and give something for the glue/putty to bond to. Be careful not to let whatever substance you use clog the bolt hole though. This is all sounding vaguely dirty..._
  - _Tip: #4-40 machine bolts and nuts are sometimes considered specialty hardware depending on the store you go to. Lowes Home Improvement and Home Depot sell them in my area_

So far, they are working as well as I had hoped for me. For my work table, I took some scrap  1x4" in a 12" section and drilled 1/2 holes through the wood with some decent spacing. The pegs fit in 1/2" holes already! Yay! That way they stand up by themselves but have enough room where they aren't bumping each other. Those planks I use on the table top or to move minis around (outside to spray them, inside to dry them in the exhaust fan equipped bathroom, etc.) 

I also have a peg board hung on the wall directly above my desk. Crawford Manufacturing makes all kinds of peg board holders and hooks - their Multi-Use Tool Holder  is great for holding the shaker pegs. It cradles them right under the rounded head, and keeps them up on the wall. I use them for lining up squads that are in progress so they don't dominate my table-top for other things being modded or generally put together.


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## pogre

Thanks DethStryke - some good tips there.

I use a lighting tent I picked up on ebay. If you are patient you can get them quite reasonably.

I put my based figs on cork with heavy duty double-sided tape. The non-based ones I paint on their pins in a pin-vise (or is it pen-vise?).

Anyway, I like your ideas. Sadly, my wife would kill me if I tried to mount pegboard in the house, so I use shelves with lots of lazy susans.

Have no idea on the hide tag thing - sorry.


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## DethStryke

pogre said:
			
		

> Sadly, my wife would kill me if I tried to mount pegboard in the house, so I use shelves with lots of lazy susans.




 I'm very lucky in that. My wife is a gamer and has "allowed" me full run of the entire basement for whatever. Half is the game room (Complete with Huge honking train-layout table left by previous owners and surround sound), half is my office & painting station.

The picture attached is my station a year ago. It's pretty much the same, only a lot more messy.  This gives you a visual of the shaker pegs I use. I now have a huge swivel paint bottle holder on the small black table to the left.

I really like the peg board for holding new minis too!  Just like in the store.


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## FunkBGR

Just wanted to post a thanks for this thread. Having never bought metal miniatures before, the task of painting them seemed daunting - until I checked ENWorld.

Thanks!


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## pogre

You're welcome Funk.

Added a Fantization article on wet blending.


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## pogre

Added an article on painting Scottish Tartans...

Don't ask


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## frankthedm

Say, anyone mention how glitter can make fantastic coins?

What is a dragon without it's horde?


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## tzor

frankthedm said:
			
		

> Say, anyone mention how glitter can make fantastic coins?




I've done a number of experments with a variety of glitters (gold, green and blue).  

This was an early attempt using gold.





This was an attempt to use blue to get a marble effect.









Here are two very poor very early attempts to use large green glitter as odd grass.


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## pogre

Interesting uses of glitter. I like the treasure pile Frank!

They make entire lines of pearl paints that essentially have glitter added to them. I like them for a very few limited applications.


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## pogre

Added a really interesting article on using dry pigments and pastels to weather paint jobs, especially metallics. This is something the top military painters do a lot, but I have not seen cross over much into the fantasy side of the hobby. I'm tempted to pick some of these up and give them a try. Oh, who am I kidding? I'm going to order some - I'll let you know how it goes.

The link for those not wanting to wade through the first post:
The Secrets of Using MIG pigments to enhance your models


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## pogre

Added a good basic article on inks:

INKS
*Total Model* has a nice basic article on the uses of acryllic inks:
Painting with Inks


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## pogre

I just went through the links. I had to delete a couple of articles I could no longer find. Fantazation is reorganizing their website, so when they're done I'll fix those links. 

Brushthralls site was reorganized a while ago and I fixed all of those links. 

My basing article over at d20 magazine rack lacks pictures - so I probably will have to put the article up on my site, but until then I left the link in place.

If you find any other problem links let me know.


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## DragonLancer

Hi all.

I need some advice on how to paint (using citadel paints) clothing so that it's not just a plain colour.

Thanks.


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## Flexor the Mighty!

Got a dipping question.  Will that work over an already painted and varnished figure?  Where do you get that stuff and do you know anything that will work as well as that minwax polyshade Tudor?


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## Doug Sundseth

Flexor the Mighty! said:
			
		

> Got a dipping question.  Will that work over an already painted and varnished figure?




It has to be painted before dipping, but varnish will make the details less defined and reduce the wash effect.  



			
				Flexor the Mighty! said:
			
		

> Where do you get that stuff and do you know anything that will work as well as that minwax polyshade Tudor?




I found Tudor at Home Depot, but I haven't looked recently.  As to a replacement, I know quite a few people who have used Future floor wax (which is a clear acrylic) and tinted with acrylic paints.  The result is pretty bullet-proof.


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## pogre

DragonLancer said:
			
		

> Hi all.
> 
> I need some advice on how to paint (using citadel paints) clothing so that it's not just a plain colour.
> 
> Thanks.




Take a look at inks and highlighting and shadowing.

Washes
Staining and Glazing
Layering


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## pogre

Doug Sundseth said:
			
		

> It has to be painted before dipping, but varnish will make the details less defined and reduce the wash effect.
> 
> I found Tudor at Home Depot, but I haven't looked recently.  As to a replacement, I know quite a few people who have used Future floor wax (which is a clear acrylic) and tinted with acrylic paints.  The result is pretty bullet-proof.




I've used other dip colors, like walnut and oak - neither gives the same kind of shadowing.

I like using tinted Future Floor Wax for certain application. Be warned, if it chips - it is a huge chip. I had this happen on a few orcs and really fired me up a few years ago.


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## pogre

Added a link.


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## WhatGravitas

1) Great thread. It really helped me to start this stuff.
2) Thanks pogre, for compiling all the stuff and keeping it up-to-date.
3) This tutorial on eyes is useful for painting eyes, at least it worked for me better than the other techniques, right now. In any case, one can at least try it.

Cheers, LT.


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## pogre

Lord Tirian said:
			
		

> 1) Great thread. It really helped me to start this stuff.
> 2) Thanks pogre, for compiling all the stuff and keeping it up-to-date.
> 3) This tutorial on eyes is useful for painting eyes, at least it worked for me better than the other techniques, right now. In any case, one can at least try it.
> 
> Cheers, LT.




Thanks LT, I added it to the list. That is the opposite of how I do eyes, but worthy of consideration because my method takes more brush control. Darin Hlavaz is a talented guy!


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## Dog Soldier

Found this site. http://www.necrotales.com/necroTutorials/

Don't think anyone has posted it. It has alot of good base-fu tips and display base building.


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## pogre

That's a great resource Dog Soldier! I'll add in some of those tutorials!


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## pogre

Posted a tutorial on scratch building wings from Necrotales. The wings are so cool looking I'm looking for a project I can use them for!


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## Shape D.

pogre said:
			
		

> Posted a tutorial on scratch building wings from Necrotales. The wings are so cool looking I'm looking for a project I can use them for!



Awesome link, This thread gets better every time I check it.

That and my painting got a lot better after checking out a lot of these links. Thanks Pogre!!


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## frankthedm

This thread should be stickied!

Well since that ain't happening, I'll bump it with a quick tip...

[sblock=Making a wedding cake pillar into a flight stand]
Making a wedding cake pillar into a flight stand

Take wedding cake pillar and saw off any preexisting base. Give pillar rough break at height you want to attach the mini at {Plan now for how high you want the fig off the ground and how balancing might be an issue ]

Glue figure to regulation base for game it will be used in. 

Fill hollow pillar with cheap weight, rocks and sand can work well. Near the top, use a non water based glue to seal the weight in. Use normal filler on top of pillar.

In your order of preference, paint and assemble the figure.







[/sblock]


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## pogre

Cool idea Frank!

I've done the same basic thing with Hirst Arts columns and arches.

I also weeded out a few dead links from Fantization, which are apparently not coming back.


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## WhatGravitas

pogre said:
			
		

> I also weeded out a few dead links from Fantization, which are apparently not coming back.



Also: The link to Jen Haley's tutorial on faces isn't working, because she closed down her old page.

Her new page has articles on (so far):
Painting Faces
Painting Freehands
Choosing & Using Brushes

Though I get the feeling that all of them are more advanced and harder for a beginner, since they already require a larger painting palette and good brush control. But I don't think it's totally wrong to add them.

Cheers, LT.


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## pogre

Thanks LT - I stole the new links and put them on the 1st post. I also took down my articles from d20zine as it is pretty much gone.


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## pogre

New "article" on using transparent glazes for blending. Has a lot of potential. Only appropriate for show quality miniatures though.
Juices


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## Lhorgrim

Pogre,
I tried the first set of links for the GW site, and they all send me to a "page load error" screen.  The links to other sites work fine for me.

Thanks for this thread, I've started feeling like I can finally do a good job with my own painting and leave those pre-painted minis on the shelf.


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## pogre

Lhorgrim said:


> Pogre,
> I tried the first set of links for the GW site, and they all send me to a "page load error" screen.  The links to other sites work fine for me.
> 
> Thanks for this thread, I've started feeling like I can finally do a good job with my own painting and leave those pre-painted minis on the shelf.




Thanks for the heads up. They have really modified their website and taken down some of the best painting and modelling articles. I had not been on there in a long time. I appreciate you checking the links - obviously I should do it more often 

I usually just add to the list when I find something useful for my own painting.


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## pogre

Added a link to Mike Kan's site. This guy has some solid instruction for painting table top quality figures quickly. His table top standard is pretty darn high!


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## frankthedm

pogre said:


> Thanks for the heads up. They have really modified their website and taken down some of the best painting and modelling articles. I had not been on there in a long time. I appreciate you checking the links - obviously I should do it more often
> 
> I usually just add to the list when I find something useful for my own painting.



Well, the Aussie site seems useful still.  

Warhammer - Beasts of Chaos


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## pogre

frankthedm said:


> Well, the Aussie site seems useful still.
> 
> Warhammer - Beasts of Chaos




Thanks Frank! I replaced some of the links using the OZ site on the list.


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## pogre

Updated some links


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## pogre

Shading Metallics
Shading Metallics by Automaton
Shading Metallics by Jabberwocky

edit: added to front page


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## pogre

Bumping this to clean it up and solicit new links.

edit: Man! I removed a ton of links. We have lost a lot of good painting advice links to the ether!

I will be updating links as I find and use them - by all means, share your favorite resources.


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## frankthedm

Wayback machine not working?

Internet Archive: Wayback Machine


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## pogre

Added a new link under DIPPING for you speed painters out there:

*The Army Painter* is a company that produces a ton of stuff for speed painting. They have three kinds of dips, base spray paints, base terrain, and now a new line of paints. The site hosts a number of "how-to" articles. I've used their products for painting historicals and it is good stuff. They are a worthy resource for those looking to paint a lot of troops quickly!
THE ARMY PAINTER COMPANY


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## pogre

Windsor & Newton #7s on sale for 67% off retail!
Discount Art Supplies

Sale ends 2.7.12

I have no association with this company except it is where I buy my brushes.


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## Mark CMG

pogre said:


> Windsor & Newton #7s on sale for 67% off retail!
> Discount Art Supplies
> 
> Sale ends 2.7.12
> 
> I have no association with this company except it is where I buy my brushes.





Nice!  Thanks for the heads up.  Those prices are considerably lower than where I usually get mine here (for comparison) -

Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable Pointed Round - BLICK art materials


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## lrsach01

Thanks from me as well! Great pick up!


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## pogre

I'll be updating this thread with more links and double checking all of the current ones when my Bones come in.


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